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Ship's
compliment:
Skipper - Paul
Greenhalgh
'Admiral' - Annette
Greenhalgh, &
'Ships Girl' - Grace Grenhalgh
"HELLO TRIM"
A CRUISE TO PORT HACKING BY MV "AQUABELLE"
'AQUABELLE' is a custom 57ft Ocean Alexander owned by the Greenhalgh Family
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Cruise Information -
research |
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Well and truly tired of wet weather and with a few days
between
pre-Christmas family commitments, Aquabelle’s
crew decided on
a short cruise to Port Hacking. Just 35nm
south of Broken Bay
(reckon 3 ¾ hrs of sea time at 9.2kt),
the Port Hacking cruising
grounds comprise the surf beaches
off Cronulla; Bate Bay with the
open roadstead Jibbon beach
and village of Bundeena; the
“suburban” Gunnamatta and
Burraneer bays; and within the Royal
National Park, South
West Arm and the Hacking River.
A quick Google search for a
Port Hacking Cruising Guide brought
up just this on the RMYC
(Cronulla) website and an email
exchange with its very
helpful author, RMYC Cruising Master John
Barter, ensued.
Still being developed by John and other RMYC
members,
this is a great
resource, filled with local history, contact
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numbers,
cruising advice; and flora, fauna and bush-walking
references. By
email’ing John at
hello.trim@optusnet.au
or calling up ‘Hello Trim’ on VHF Ch 16, contact can be made
with others cruising the Port and its environs. ‘Trim’ is
of course a salute to Flinders’ remarkable sea-going cat;
with George Bass, Flinders explored and took soundings over
the entrance to Port Hacking in March/April, 1796. A
cruising pennant is available, showing Trim in black over a
yellow field, to identify those enjoying the Port in this
way. NSW Maritime also has a map showing the locations of
Courtesy Moorings throughout Port Hacking at
www.maritime.nsw.gov.au/docs/recboat/mooringmap-porthacking.pdf
(although those in the beautiful SW Arm are omitted).
Alan Lucas’ Cruising Guide to the NSW Coast
(5th and 6th editions...earlier
editions give very limited assistance) is as always
essential for safe navigation and sound anchorage advice.
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Departure - Friday
17th December 2010 |
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Aquabelle left Bobbin Head at 1530 on Friday, 17
December intending to overnight on the Club mooring under
Barrenjoey Headland.
At 1730 we found a non-member boat had
taken the mooring and was locked up with her owners
apparently ashore. The Admiral had
reservations about this
as an overnight anchorage anyway, so instead the Club
mooring in The Basin was picked up. The golden afternoon
light
and warm water saw the crew swimming off the boarding
platform before enjoying the Admiral’s Chicken Korma dinner
on the flybridge.

'The Basin' Mooring
The 'Crew' enjoying a swim
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Into History & the SW Arm: Saturday |
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Saturday morning brought light WNW winds
and slight seas so it was off the mooring at 0600,
breakfast underway off Mona Vale and we were standing
off Port Jackson’s Heads just before 0800. A 1.0m tide,
needed to move about Port Hacking, was not available
until 1600 so with plenty of time, the Skipper took the
opportunity to detour into Botany Bay for a quick
history lesson for the benefit of Ship’s Girl, 14y.o.
Grace (‘Dad, I’m on holidays now you know’
protests duly logged and ignored). We picked up the
courtesy mooring off Kurnell and took the tender ashore
200m south of Cook’s 1770 landing place. The soft white
sand beach here is a perfect spot to tender ashore and
with a cafe serving coffee and gelato not 100m away, it
met with the crew’s instant approval. In the adjacent
beautifully maintained park are monuments to Banks &
Solander; the gravesite of the first white man to die on
Australia’s east coast (of natural causes, one of Cook’s
seamen); and well-presented information on the history
of the local Aboriginal people.
Admiral &
Ship’s Girl at Cook’s Landing
monument, Kurnell
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A turn inland and a 20 minute walk would have taken us
to the Kurnell oil refinery and the desalination
plant. And Silver Beach, a 10 minute walk west of
Cook’s landing place, offers great swimming. But Botany
Bay and the lower reaches of the Georges River is a
cruise Aquabelle plans to do properly another
time, so after an hour ashore enjoying the historic
park, it was back out to sea for the 6nm run past
Cronulla and into Bate Bay.
We had planned to anchor off
Jibbon Beach, on the S shore of Bate Bay. It is described
by Lucas as one of the better open roadstead anchorages on
the NSW coast. The beach is pure white sand and is
apparently crowded with boaties on most Summer weekends.
However the wind had
stiffened to 25knts and shifted Westerly, blowing hard onto
an anchorage otherwise ideal for winds E through S.
Instead, we moved just a little W and came up off Bundeena’s
Horden Beach in 3m over clean sand, just W of the ferry
wharf. The tender was taken into the beach here and a 100m
walk brought the crew into Bundeena’s main street.

'Aquabelle'
anchored off Bundeena’s
Horden Beach
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Saturday
(Cont'd) |
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After collecting walking maps from the
Information Centre, we spent a couple of hours
strolling, visiting an art gallery and enjoying a lunch
of salt & pepper calamari and Thai beef salad at a local
cafe.
Bundeena would be an ideal
place to collect crew wanting to avoid the ocean passage
from Broken Bay but keen to enjoy the calm waters of Port
Hacking. They could drive to Bundeena or even take the
train to Cronulla and then the ferry across. The tender
could collect land-lubbers comfortably from the ferry wharf,
avoiding even the wet feet of a beach pick-up ! The first
Sunday of each month, Bundeena hosts an Artists Trail, where
various studios and exhibition spaces open and co-ordinate a
showing that has been taking place for some 10 years now.
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After a swim and hot showers
back aboard, at 1530 it was time to pick up that tide and
make for our first evening anchorage.
Port Hacking is notorious for its sand bars
and shoal waters, but channels are in fact very well
marked. The only tricky area is a massive sand bar at the
mouth of Burraneer Bay, which has to be cleared to gain
access to Port Hacking proper. The RMYC Cruising Guide plots
the current best route across this sand bar: it is
re-produced with the kind assistance of RMYC’s John Barter
below. With just enough tide for Aquabelle’s
1.7m draft and the depthsounder taking itself
off-line in protest, we soon found ourselves back in better
water.
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South West Arm - Anchorage
Saturday night |
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 South West Arm, which reaches well into the Royal National
Park, was Aquabelle’s first-night destination.
The head of navigation provides a fine anchorage: a mill
pond, protected on all sides by National Park. Public
moorings here are provided by the National parks & Wildlife
Service but are maintained by the RMYC and have a feature we
should perhaps consider for our own Club’s moorings: a
pair of ropes off each. This allows a single vessel to be
bridled to the mooring; and for raft-ups, the first two
vessels each get a bow line.
We arrived here at 1630; the warm
early evening made for a fine fly bridge BBQ of tiger prawns
& watermelon salad. It had been a long and busy day so the
crew turned in for an early night and a sound sleep.
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Up the River
with a Paddle...and a 5hp Outboard: Sunday |
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Sunday, 19 December brought an overcast morning and still,
cool conditions. We left the SW Arm mooring at 0815 and
entered Port Hacking proper, circumnavigating Yowie and
Gymea bays and checking out waterfront mansions, fishing
shacks and what appeared to be a scale model of the
Parthenon!
Lucas shows an anchorage just
inside the entrance to the Hacking River, against the
Eastern bank, but Aquabelle could find nothing here
to suit a 15m motor cruiser. Instead, we took up Lucas’
alternative anchorage 70m north of the North Cardinal mark
at the entrance to the Hacking River and at 0930 had
breakfast on the hook here. A tide equal to draft is
needed travel the length of the Hacking River and tide times
were not with us, so at 1030 it was into the tender and off
up to the head of navigation at Audley. Aquabelle’s
15hp tender outboard was in for a
service and we had a 5hp on loan from TQM’s Gino. Even so,
it was only a 40minute run. With a bit of common sense, a
tender can leave the channel and cut most bends safely
enough and approach within 30m of the weir at Audley (no
closer: submerged rocks are immediately below the weir).
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The best strategy is to turn
back from the weir and land the tender at the small beach at
Reid’s Flat, where an extensive park with picnic tables, etc
will be found. The well-prepared will have a Thermos of
coffee or a picnic lunch to enjoy here after a 5 minute walk
back to Audley’s historic sites. The 1930’s Boat Shed
remains in near-original condition and Federal Government
funding is restoring the Dance Hall building on the opposite
shore, with re-opening planned for July, 2011.

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We were back aboard
Aquabelle by 1300 and as
winds stiffened and swung NW, we rounded Lightning Point and
passed courtesy moorings in Farnell Bight and Dark Bay
before picking up one of three in Carruthers Bay. This
would be a delightful spot on a fine Summer’s day, tucked in
as it is behind a sand spit shallow enough to invite
knee-deep fishing and wading.
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We had lunch here but a
strengthening Northerly and the threat of early evening
thunderstorms caused us to move again, this time to the
Southern side of Gogerleys Point, where we found the
picturesque Warumbul Bay. A small beach and picnic area
invite a shore visit. Perfectly protected
from the Northerly, we enjoyed a passing parade of boats
of all shapes and sizes decked out for Christmas...including
the reindeer on cabin-top shown here ..with their crews very
definitely in party mode. Steady rain at 1800 saw things
settle down and we had the anchorage largely to ourselves
for the evening.

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Blown away to Cronulla:
Monday |
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On Monday, 20 December the mooring was dropped at 0700
to allow Aquabelle to make the top of the tide for
the crossing back East over the sand bank off Burraneer
Bay. The day was clear and sunny but the Westerly was soon
blowing 15-20kts and temperatures were only in the high
teens. Shelter was sought in the SW corner of Hordens Beach
off Bundeena, in the hope the wind would blow itself out or
at least, shift to the SW. It did neither, staying just N
of W and gusting up to 30kts; Marine Rescue Sydney relayed
the Bureau’s Strong Wind Warning upgrade to Gale Warning.
We couldn’t identify any anchorage E of the Burraneer
sandbank where Aquabelle would be sheltered from this
wind so the crew gave up plans for a day of swimming and
snorkelling ( but see below for the intended anchorage for
this). Instead, we decided to go early into the recently
re-built Cronulla Marina, at the S end of Gunnamatta Bay.
The passage plan had been to stay at this marina overnight
anyway: close family live nearby and we’d invited them to
join us on board for dinner on our last night. A berth had
been booked a week before leaving Bobbin Head and a call to
the helpful marina manager, David Oostdam (0419 204 163),
confirmed coming alongside early wouldn’t be a problem. It
proved to be the right decision: the Westerly was blowing a
full 40kt+ gale as we came in at 1030 and this persisted
until 1600, when it dropped back to 25kts and finally to
10kts by 1900...where it stayed overnight.
 But the day was by no
means lost. Cronulla Marina is superbly
located: out its entry gate & 100m through a small
park takes the visitor to the Cronulla train station and
one end of Cronulla’s main shopping strip, where we
had no problem finding great coffee (Grind Espresso, Surf Road) and outstanding fresh seafood for the evening feast (Notaras Seafood, 47 The Kingsway). The Skipper noted a
hardware store right at the beginning of the shopping strip
too, which could be handy for visiting cruisers.
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Following the shopping strip all the way East brings up Cronulla’s famous
surf beaches (emptied of beach lovers by the sand-blasting
wind when we visited!).
Returning aboard, Aquabelle’s
washer and dryer were employed on towels and
sheets while the vacuum cleaner, hot water heater,
dishwasher and every other AC appliance on board was brought
into action to test the shorepower limit.
Once Aquabelle had
been readied to the Admiral’s satisfaction, we set off again
by foot through a series of parks and walks that run the
full E side of Gunnamatta Bay. A netted swimming enclosure
begins (or finishes) this walk. A Fisheries Research
Station is passed at the Bay’s entrance and on rounding, a
cove known as Salmon Haul is brought up. This has small
sand beaches, clear shallow waters and rocky outcrops and
would otherwise have been our swimming and snorkelling
destination. Day-time anchorage just off looks feasible and
would be well protected from Northerlies.
Further along, the look-outs
and information plaques at Bass & Flinders Point afforded
the Ship’s Girl another history lesson. We returned aboard
from this point, getting back to the marina after a two-hour
round walk, but we could have continued on around the
cliff-top paths all the way to the Cronulla surf beach and
then back to the marina via the shopping strip....probably a
three-hour round-trip easy-grade walk that would be a great
stretch of the sea-legs.
Back at the marina, we
discovered another Ocean 50 Ocean Alexander motor yacht was
berthed just a few pens along from Aquabelle with new
owners aboard. Visits to each other’s vessels ensued with
the usual conversations about planned upgrade projects.
Then our visitors arrived for dinner and finally, another
long and happy day was over.

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Big Swell Home:
Tuesday |
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For once, we were in no hurry to leave the marina
in the morning. The marine forecast indicated big seas
early on but promised these abating late morning, so the
crew busied itself on shipboard chores and making ready for
sea. The empty forward water tank was left that way and the
aft water tank was topped off to maintain a bow-up trim.
Each cabin and head was checked and stowed against rough conditions. The flybridge was tidied away and extra
tie-downs secured the tender. The heavy Portuguese bridge
hatch was swung closed.
Dock lines were let go at
0845 under clear sunny skies and a cool 15kt Westerly and we
cleared Port Hacking into open ocean at 0905. Waves had
been blown out flat by the Westerly and a 3m swell of
moderate period was running from the South....no problem for
stabilized Aquabelle and the crew soon settled to the
very pleasant motion of being out at sea again. A pod of
around a dozen dolphins raced across the surface of the
inky-blue to jostle for position in our bow-wave: something
that happens often but never fails to bring smiles all
round.

Botany Bay’s container terminal with Sydney CBD behind,
from sea off Cape Solander |
Making slightly better speeds with less water and fuel weight
and a breeze on our aft quarter, we were off Sydney Heads by
1055 with the swell reducing to 2m and by 1230, with the
swell down to 1m, we were E of Barrenjoey Head making our
turn into Broken Bay....just 3 hours and 25 minutes of
sea-time. By 1400, Aquabelle was back in her berth at
Bobbin Head, having made just 7kts against the tide from
Lion Island.
Though for us
the seas had settled quickly after a windy couple of days,
we reflected on what a good destination Port Hacking would
have been for a Bobbin Head boat, even if the weather had
deteriorated further. A vessel could be left safe and
secure in Cronulla Marina and her crew could simply take the
train home, returning the same way when a weather window
re-opened. And with Botany Bay and Port Jackson both
available en route, offering protected anchorages
against all wind directions, a change of sea conditions or
an un-well crew-member need not be feared.
All in all, Port
Hacking offers BHCC members a great 4-day cruising
destination, with a variety of waterways and anchorages to
explore....and history lesson opportunities aplenty.
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Aquabelle’s next short cruise, date still to be determined,
will be to Lake Macquarie. She is always happy to convoy
with another vessel(s) for the sea legs. |

Article and photographs Contributed by the Greenhalgh
Family. |
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